and has often been the lone American in the elite World Cup standings in recent years. who works as a carpenter in Glenwood Springs,scarpe adidad, I have a huge LinkedIn network. "The second job I applied for,yohji yamamoto shop, "I do things that I wouldnt do otherwise. about halfway between L.M. I heard noises from the kitchen; it was Fred having a snack I asked him what he was eating and he said "Don't know Crackers and some dip stuff" I asked if it was any good He replied "It's OK not bad" Then I looked at the can and said "Fred it's cat food"And he goes "Well it tastes OK" Another time I put dry kibble in a bowl and on the counter for the cats Fred comes over and he's standing there talking to Roy and I hear him going crunch crunch crunchFred Wasn't ThereWhen the first Americans summited Mount Everest in 1963 Beckey was absent He hadn't been invited to join the team after damaging his reputation eight years earlier on Nepal's 27940-foot Lhotse where he'd left a weakened climber alone high on the mountainNORMAN DYHRENFURTH (leader of the 1963 American expedition to Everest) I was trying to raise money for a 1955 expedition to Lhotse in a hurry And Henry Hall [president of the American Alpine Club in the early 1950s] said "OK I'll give you $10000 but under one condition: that you take Fred Beckey" I said "Why is that so important" And he said "Well he's such a good climber and he's never been invited on a major expedition And I feel that he should be given the chance" I was happy to get the $10000 But I regretted it later because I was forced into taking somebody who is not an expedition manCRAIG It's been my experience in the Himalayas that stories get distorted I know Fred got a bum rap on LhotseDYHRENFURTH He risked the life of Dr Bruno Spirig Fred left him at Camp 4 without adequate assistance Bruno was snowblind and nearly died of cerebral edema We saw a single person coming down It was Fred I asked him "Why did you leave Dr Spirig alone" Turns out Dr Spirig didn't even have a sleeping bag he didn't have down clothing We couldn't understand it It's strange the actions that take place when you are without oxygen at 7500 meters The next morning we got Spirig down and he recovered From then on people had no confidence in Fred Beckey I'm very sorry to sayLISKA That was a bad trip They ran into problems at a high camp Fred said it was like a war zone Blizzard altitude things coming down on them Fred descended against Dyhrenfurth's wishes That was one reason Fred wasn't invited on the Everest climb He should have been of course because he was the bestJIM WHITTAKER (first American to summit Everest in 1963) Oh yeah Fred was very capable But you can't just be a good climber on expeditions You've got to get along with people and not have your own agendaFRED BECKEY It was a big thing But I didn't take it too hard It didn't affect my life Maybe it's like some girl you're interested in and it doesn't work out and you get involved with somebody else and you forget about herLISKA At any rate it left him with a frenzy to climb everything in sightFred Is a PlayerHis singular pursuit of climbing meant he never settled down and had a family Some guys just can't be tamedFRED BECKEY I like kids It's like puppy dogs: I like golden retrievers and Labradors are great dogsbut a lot of dog-care maintenance I saw a couple of my friends that had kids and boy their wives put their foot down pretty quick They essentially quit climbing It's a big job to raise kids up to do it right Time-consuming It leads to conflicts if you're off running around climbing all the time To tell you the truth it's probably selfish on my partHORNBEIN Fred's breadth of interest in life seemed to be pretty narrowly focused on mountaineering and young womenCRAIG It started when he was about 16 He started hanging out at the skating rink and picking up girls who were what in those days we called "roller babes"RATLIFF In the mid-1980s he was trying to put the make on my girlfriend She was 27 years younger than him He loves women He always wanted to give them a backrub Anything to get his hands on themMIKE SWAYNE (Northwest climber with major Cascades first ascents in the early 1960s) There was the time we were in Portland visiting some girls who had given Fred their number when they met in Yosemite Valley Fred asked one of them if she would go out to the car with him and that it would only take a few minutes That was a pickup line that I'd never heard before But I was youngFred Is No FoolHe wasn't just scaling mountains He was studying themDICK DORWORTH (writer occasional climbing partner) Fred's published books including Mount McKinley the Cascade Alpine Guide Mountains of North America and Challenge of the North Cascades are the work of a meticulous scholarly researcherMEGAN BOND (close friend) He's
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